Golden
Temple
Like other Sikh religious sites in India, the Golden Temple stands there in
simple majesty, the gilded splendor of its paneling, dome and minarets shining
in the morning light, silhouetted softly in the water and etched gently across
the city escape. For the Sikh community the Harmandir Sahib Gurdwara Golden
Temple is the final spiritual "vision," journey's end or beginning
and, for every other community too, it is a shrine to be visited.
The Golden Temple in Amritsar is the most exalted of all Sikh shrines, drawing
pilgrims from near and far fore centuries. The temple's story began some four
centuries ago when the third Sikh Guru Amar Das asked Guru Ram Das (who succeeded
him) to build a central place for the congregation of the Sikhs. Guru Arjan
Dev completed the work started by Guru Ram Das in the 16th century. The gurdwara
has four entrance doors, called deoris, in all four directions-symbolic of
the new faith that made no distinction between caste and creed. People could
enter and bow in any direction they preferred.
As one descends into the temple (unlike most temples, here one actually descends
as the structure is built below the level of the surrounding area), one is
confronted by the stunningly beautiful sanctum sanctorum glimmering in the
water of the holy tank that is flanked on all four sides by spotlessly clean
marble walkways and pavements.
The main structure rises from the center of the sacred pool and is approached
by a long causeway. The 52-meter, square-based Hari Mandir stands on a square
platform, its lower parts marble, and its upper portion fully covered with
plates of gilded copper. In the interior, on the ground, the Guru Granth Sahib
(holy book of the Sikhs) is placed under a jewel-studded canopy. On the first
floor is a small pavilion called the Shish Mahal (mirror room). It is ornamented
with pieces of mirrors inlaid in the ceiling and walls. Above is another smaller
pavilion. Exquisite murals adorn the walls of the pavilions, but other than
that, the emphasis is on simplicity.
Situated at the other end of the causeway connected to the Harmandir Sahib is
the Akal Takht. Literally, it means the eternal throne and its building opposite
the temple has a significance. While the temple stands for the spiritual guidance,
the Akal Takht symbolizes the dispensing of justice and temporal activities.
During the day, the Guru Granth Sahib is kept in the temple and at night at
the Akal Takht. Traditionally all Sikh warriors sought blessings here before
going for war.
As it has done for several centuries, the temple mirrors many images that are
dear to the devout. One sees the beautiful golden dome shimmering in the water.
One sees thousands of devotees praying and kneeling before the holy book. One
sees them touch the holy water and pour it over their foreheads. One sees people
streaming into the langar hall to partake of the common meal served lovingly
to all. Forming a soothing and beautiful soundtrack to all these activities
is the continuous kirtan (devotional) recitation that has provided solace to
so many.
If you take a short walk around the Golden Temple, you can visit several other
Gurdwaras that trace their links with the Gurus. Gurdwara Baba Atal Sahib and
the Shahidi martyr's shrine are important religious centers, each with its own
history. Amritsar played a pivotal role in India's quest for independence, and
no national monument has more significance than Jalianwala Bagh, a solemn, grim
reminder of one of the bloodiest chapters of India's freedom movement.
The 2000 Indians killed and wounded here in the indiscriminate firing by the
British on Baisakhi in 1919 was carnage that had nationwide ramifications, shaking
and enraging the whole country. Jalianwala Bagh commemorates the martyrs, keeping
the tragic episode in its historical context. Today, one finds a small gallery
with photos of key personalities involved, the well into which the crowds jumped
to escape the murderous hail of bullets and a simple memorial at the site that
shaped India's destiny.
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