Gwalior
: Places to See
The Fort
Standing on a steep mass of sandstone, Gwalior Fort dominates the city and is
its most significant monument. It has been the scene of momentous events, imprisonment,
battles and jauhars . A steep road winds upwards to the fort, flanked by statues
of the Jain tirthankaras, carved into the rock face. The magnificent outer walls
of the fort still stand, two miles in length and 35 feet high, bearing witness
to its reputation for being one of the most invincible forts of India. This
imposing structure inspired Emperor Babur to describe it as " the pearl
amongst the fortresses of Hind".
Gujari Mahal
Within the fort are some marvels of medieval architecture. The 15th century
Gujari Mahal is a monument to the love of Raja Mansingh Tomar for his intrepid
Gujar Queen, Mrignayani. The outer structure of Gujari Mahal has survived in
an almost total state of preservation; the interior has been converted into
Archaeological Museum housing rare antiquities,some of them dating back to the
1st century A.D. Even though many of these have been defaced by the iconoclastic
Mughals , their perfection of form has survived the ravages of time. Particularly
worth seeing is the statue of Shalbhanjika from Gyraspur, the tree goddess,
the epitome of perfection in miniature . The statue is kept in the custody of
the museum's curator, and can be seen on request.
Man Mandir Palace
Built between 1486 and 1517 by Raja Mansingh.The tiles that once adorned its
exterior have not survived , but at the entrance , traces of these still remain.
Within the palace rooms stand bare, stripped of their former glory, testifying
to the passing of the centuries. Vast chambers with fine stone screens were
once the music halls, and behind these screens, the royal ladies would learn
music from the great masters of the day. Below, circular dungeons housed the
state prisoners of the Mughals. Emperor Aurangzeb had his brother , Murad imprisoned
, and later executed here. Close by is Jauhar Pond, where in the Rajput tradition,
the Ranis committed mass sati after their consorts had been defeated in battle.
At Man Mandir Palace, a poignant ambience of those days of chivalry and heroism
still lingers in the silent chambers. A superbly mounted Son-et-Lumiere here
brings it all alive every evening.
Jai Vilas Palace and Museum
A splendor of a different kind exists in the Jai Vilas Palace, current residence
of the Scindia family. Some 25 rooms have been turned into the Jivaji Rao Scindia
Museum, and in these rooms , so evocative of a regal lifestyle, the past comes
alive. Jai Vilas is an Italianate structure which combines the Tuscan and Corinthian
architectural modes. The imposing Darbar Hall has two central chandeliers weighing
a couple of tonnes, and hung only after ten elephants had tested the strength
of the roof. Ceilings picked out in gilt, heavy draperies and tapestries , fine
Persian carpets and antique furniture from France and Italy are the features
of these spacious rooms. Eye catching treasures include : a silver train with
cutglass wagons which served guests as it chugged around the table on miniature
rails; a glass cradle from Italy used for the baby Krishna each Janmashtami,
silver dinner services and swords that were once worn by Aurangzeb and Shah
Jahan. These are ,besides, personal momentoes of past members of the Scindia
family : the jeweled slippers that belonged to Chinkoo Rani , four-poster beds,
gifts from practically every country in the world, hunting trophies and portraits.
The Scindia Museum offers an unparalled glimpse into the rich culture and lifestyle
of princely India.
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