Cuisines
In Uttar Pradesh
Kundan Kaliya
Kaliya is a mutton preparation with gravy along with the compulsory inclusion
of turmeric or saffron. It is a preparation commonly served at lunch or dinner
or both. To create novelty in this popular dish some variations have been
devised by the cooks of Awadh, for instance Mahi Kaliya, Chandi Kaliya and
the unbeatable Kundan Kaliya. The latter is a delicacy designed by the bawarchis
and rakabdars to please their Nawabs. The use of gold leaf in this dish lends
a touch of luxury to it. The carefully carved mutton pieces wrapped in gold
leaf, placed on a bed of rich gravy shimmering with gold amalgamated in it,
is a stimulant for jaded appetites.
Shami Kabab
A formal spread in any Nawabi banquet of a nawab in Awadh was considered incomplete
without the inclusion of the Shami Kabab, an important constituent of the
"Tora" (presentation of food). It would be no exaggeration to say
that it was the `National' kabab of Awadh. Made from mince meat, the kababs
are round patties filled with spicy surprises and the tangy `kairi' or raw
green mango. So ideally the best time of the year to have these kababs is
around the month of May when the fruit of the mango tree is in its infancy.
In other seasons the kairi can be substituted with `kamrakh' or `karonda'
both having a tart flavour reminiscent of the raw mango. If none of these
are available then one can make do with the juice of lime squeezed into the
mince paste. The texture of the kabab is extremely soft and simply melts in
the mouth.
Kakori Kabab
The seekh has long been considered a piece de resistance in the Awadhi dastarkhwan.
The beautifully executed kabab is what every Lucknowi is proud of. The seekh
kabab, introduced in this region by the Mughals, was originally prepared from
beef mince on skewers and cooked on charcoal fire. But later influences and
innovations led to the use of lamb mince which was preferred for its soft texture.
Besides, serving it on the dastarkhwan did not offend the sensibilities of the
Hindu guests. The immense popularity of this kabab led to further refinements
and improvements and one bawarchi from Kakori found much acclaim for his efforts
in this direction. Kakori is a small hamlet on the outskirts of Lucknow, in
the Lucknow-Malihabad mango belt. During the freedom struggle, it become well-known
for the famous `Kakori Case' when a band of freedom fighters looted the train
carrying the British Treasury money at this obscure place. In the same period
of British rule, it was also customary in this region for the rich Rajas and
Nawabs to entertain senior British officers and ply them with the best hospitality
they could offer.
And if it was the mango season, a `mango dinner' was very much in order (dinner
in a mango orchard, was followed by a variety of chilled mangoes served in great
style). At one such party in Kakori, stung by the remark of a British officer
regarding the coarse texture of Seekh Kabab, the host, the late Nawab Syed Mohammad
Haider Kazmi summoned his rakabdars, hakims and attars the very next day and
asked them to evolve a more refined variety of the Seekh Kabab. Ten days of
incessant research and design efforts resulted in the now famous `Kakori Kababs'
which were as far as perfection could go. The mince for the kabab was to be
obtained from no other part but the `Raan ki Machhli' (tendon of the leg of
mutton) and rawaz or animal fat was replaced by khoya, black pepper by white
pepper and a brand new mix of powdered spices which still remains a closely
guarded secret added to the perfect blend. And of course, the Nawab invited
the same officer again and presented the new version of the Seekh Kabab and
needless to say it met with great applause. Since then the Seekh Kababs of Kakori
became famous by word of mouth and even today, though cooked elsewhere, are
known as `Kakori Kababs'.
Note: Kokori Kababs are grilled on a specially designed barbecue, on
slow charcoal fire.
Gulnaar Kababs
The Gulnaar Kabab is a gourmet's delight. The blending of tomatoes with spices
and chicken, with a garnish of red rose petals is one of the most aesthetic
dishes of the bawarchis of Awadh.
Nehari Khaas
The richness of Awadh Cuisine is not only in terms of the ingredients used but
also the variety in cuisine. If some dishes taste good owing to the rich flavour
of pure ghee and cream, some are incomparable though they may be cooked in the
humble mustard oil. Mustard oil is a common cooking medium in north India. The
mustard plant grown extensively in these parts is harvested in February and
March. In Awadh, even the mustard oil, extracted from the best quality of mustard
seeds, is heated in large cauldrons till it smokes. Then it is passed through
muslin cloth to remove any impurities. This oil is then collected and sealed
in large earthenware pots or urns and buried in the earth, preferably under
the shade of a tree or a cool place. It is left to mature for a period of 9
to 10 months, i.e. through the rainy season so that the oil is further cooled
when the rain water seeps into the ground. Then it is dug up and is ready for
use. The long period of underground storage transforms the oil to a granular
texture which is used for cooking purposes. It has a mild flavor unlike the
pungent unseasoned mustard oil, and is also less hot.
Mustard oil is used in the cooking of curries and even dry vegetables. The Nehari
is invariably cooked in mustard oil and is a hot favorite of all the princes
and paupers, the high and low, the rich and poor. The word `Nehari' is derived
from `Nehar' or fasting and is a popular breakfast item with the Muslim populace.
It is generally had after the first namaz of the day. Nehari originally, is
beef, braised and then stewed overnight, further prepared in the morning and
eaten with kulchas. The recipe for the Nehari, interestingly, is also derived
from a Hakimi Nuskha and it is especially suited to the body constitution in
the winter months as it keeps the body warm. For the plebian it is still common
practice to start the day with nehari kulcha as it is a sumptuous meal and can
sustain one till dusk. Now many Muslim families use mutton instead of beef for
Nehari but the street ships of old Lucknow still serve Nehari prepared from
beef. In the old city of Lucknow, strategically located opposite a mosque near
Akbari Gate is the famous eatery of Rahim which has been dishing out the best
Nehari for the past five generations. Haji Zubair presently in charge of the
family business gets the masala powder prepared in bulk under personal supervision,
using the family secret of generations, in which he claims, are incorporated
23 herbs and spices. Even now a soup plate full of Nehari and Kulcha can be
had for Rs. 7.50, equivalent to about 500 quality calories of tonic food!
The recipe for Nehari given here is from the house of Rahim adapted to mutton,
in keeping with popular taste in this region.
Prescription of the `Hakims' or practitioners of Unani medicine.
Nargisi Kofta
A very interesting aspect of Awadh cuisine is the inspiration it draws from
a myriad sources - seasons and celebrations, flora and fauna, personalities,
poetry and colour. In Urdu poetry one finds frequent references to the "Narcissus-like
eyes" (Nargisi aankhen) of the beloved. And sure enough, the bawarchis
of Awadh designed the Nargis Kofta, extending the simile to the dastarkhwan!
The choice of egg for this dish was most appropriate. The Nargisi Kofta is essentially
a hard boiled egg, wrapped in mince and deep fried, when halved lengthwise it
resembles the eye! Purists go to the length of selecting eggs which are more
slim than round to get the perfect shape!
Patili Kabab
Awadh is home to a vast variety of kababs. They differ in shape and size, the
kind of meat used in the method of cooking involved. Contrary to the general
notion that kababs are either barbecued or griddle fried, in this region, even
the patili or deep copper or brass vessel is used for making kababs. This particular
kabab is prepared especially well by Begum of Kurki who still maintains high
standards of gastronomy. We were fortunate enough to partake of her hospitality
and were plied with a variety of dishes which are now, more or less, extinct
in this region. This kabab is served as one whole mass on the plate and no in
several individual pieces. The cooking of mince on slow fire with ghee and spices
infuses the meat with a subtle aroma, and the superbly soft texture of the kabab
makes partaking of it a pleasurable experience!
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